Hydration / Barrier

Squalane

INCI: Squalane · CAS 111-01-3

Squalane is a lightweight, stable emollient derived by hydrogenating squalene, closely matching the skin's own lipids to soften and support the barrier without heaviness.

INCISqualane
CAS111-01-3
Use levelwidely variable; commonly 1–10% in formulas
Solubilityoil-soluble
pH / stabilityoil phase (pH not applicable)
RegulatoryListed in EU CosIng

What it does

  • Softens skin and provides a non-greasy, fast-absorbing emollient feel.
  • Helps reduce water loss and reinforces the lipid barrier.
  • Improves the spreadability and finish of oil phases.

How it works

Squalene is a lipid naturally present in human sebum; squalane is its saturated, oxidation-stable form. Being biomimetic, it integrates smoothly into the skin's lipid layer to soften and reduce transepidermal water loss while feeling remarkably light. Modern squalane is commonly derived from olives or fermented sugarcane rather than shark liver.

Use level

Typical use level
widely variable; commonly 1–10% in formulas

Highly versatile: used from around 1% up to being a major part of the oil phase, and even neat as a facial oil. Typical formulated levels sit around 1–10%.

Formulation considerations

  • Oil-soluble; part of the oil phase.
  • Very stable to oxidation, heat and light (unlike squalene).
  • Broadly compatible; improves slip and cushions actives.
  • Sustainable grades are from olive or sugarcane.

What it pairs with & what to avoid

Pairs well with

  • Humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin (to seal)
  • Ceramides and other barrier lipids
  • Most oil-phase actives

Use with care / avoid

  • Nothing significant; it is highly compatible

Regulatory status

Squalane is listed in the EU CosIng database and is a well-established, widely used emollient.

Common questions

Is squalane the same as squalene?

No. Squalene is the naturally occurring, less stable lipid; squalane is its hydrogenated, oxidation-stable version used in cosmetics.

Is squalane good for oily or acne-prone skin?

It is lightweight and generally well tolerated, and many oily-skin users find it comfortable, though individual responses vary.

Where does cosmetic squalane come from?

Most modern squalane is derived from olives or fermented sugarcane rather than shark liver.

Related monographs

The SBCT Labs Ingredient Suite is a free, independent educational resource for cosmetic R&D teams and formulators. It is provided for reference only and is not sales material — SBCT Labs does not necessarily supply the ingredients described here.

About SBCT Labs →
Related SBCT actives

Need an active built for your brief?

The Ingredient Suite is free and educational. Separately, SBCT develops and supplies cosmetic actives — botanical, fermentation and synthesis — made in India, formulated to your concept. Tell us the concern and format and we’ll send an evaluation sample.