What it does
- Draws and holds water at the skin surface for immediate hydration and a plumper look.
- Helps improve smoothness and reduce the appearance of fine dehydration lines.
How it works
Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that binds many times its weight in water. It is used across a range of molecular weights: higher weights form a hydrating film on the surface, while lower weights spread more easily and give a lighter feel. Products often blend weights. In cosmetics the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate) is the common, more stable form.
Use level
- Typical use level
- typically 0.1–1%
Used at low percentages, typically 0.1–1%. Because it thickens water strongly, higher levels can feel tacky; a blend of molecular weights usually gives the best sensory result.
Formulation considerations
- Sodium hyaluronate is water-soluble; disperse into the water phase and hydrate fully.
- Stable across a broad pH range and robust to normal processing.
- High levels increase viscosity and can feel tacky.
- Pairs with occlusives/emollients to seal in the water it attracts (important in dry climates).
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Glycerin and other humectants
- Ceramides, squalane (to seal)
- Niacinamide, most actives
Use with care / avoid
- Relying on it alone in very dry air without an occlusive layer
Regulatory status
Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate are listed in the EU CosIng database and are ubiquitous, well-established cosmetic ingredients.
Common questions
What percentage of hyaluronic acid should I use?
Usually 0.1–1%. It thickens water strongly, so more is not better and can feel tacky.
What molecular weight of hyaluronic acid is best?
Higher weights sit on the surface and hydrate/film; lower weights feel lighter and spread easily. Many products blend weights for the best balance.
Does hyaluronic acid work in dry climates?
It draws water, so in very dry air it should be paired with an occlusive or emollient to prevent it pulling moisture from deeper skin.