Exfoliation / Renewal

Retinol

INCI: Retinol · CAS 68-26-8

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and one of the most well-studied cosmetic actives for skin renewal, supporting smoother texture, more even tone and the appearance of firmness over time.

INCIRetinol
CAS68-26-8
Also known asVitamin A
Use leveltypically 0.1–1%
Solubilityoil-soluble
pH / stabilityoil phase; formulate ~pH 5–6.5
RegulatoryListed in EU CosIng; EU maximum concentrations apply

What it does

  • Supports skin cell renewal for smoother, more refined texture.
  • Helps improve the look of fine lines and uneven tone over time.
  • A benchmark 'anti-ageing' active with extensive documentation.

How it works

Retinol is converted in the skin, in steps, to retinoic acid, the form that influences skin-cell behaviour and renewal. It is highly effective but can cause dryness, flaking and irritation, especially when starting, and it is sensitive to air and light. Gradual introduction (retinisation) improves tolerance.

Use level

Typical use level
typically 0.1–1%

Cosmetic products commonly use 0.1–1% (often 0.1–0.5%). Note that the EU has established maximum concentrations for retinol in cosmetics, so check the current limit for your product type and market. Start low and infrequent to build tolerance.

Formulation considerations

  • Oil-soluble; sensitive to oxygen, light and heat.
  • Use antioxidants, protective/encapsulated systems and airless opaque packaging.
  • Formulate around pH 5–6.5; avoid combining in-formula with strong acids.
  • Introduce gradually in-use to limit irritation.

What it pairs with & what to avoid

Pairs well with

  • Niacinamide and peptides (support/soothe)
  • Hydrators and barrier lipids (offset dryness)
  • Bakuchiol (as a gentler complement or alternative)

Use with care / avoid

  • Simultaneous use with strong AHAs/BHAs or benzoyl peroxide (irritation/degradation)
  • Use in pregnancy (advise consulting a professional)

Regulatory status

Retinol is listed in the EU CosIng database. The EU has established maximum concentrations for retinol in cosmetic products (differing by product type); formulators must follow the current limits for their market.

Common questions

What percentage of retinol should I use?

Cosmetic products commonly use 0.1–0.5% (up to about 1%). Note EU maximum limits apply, so check the current figure for your product type.

Why does retinol irritate my skin?

Retinol accelerates renewal, which can cause temporary dryness and flaking, especially at the start. Introducing it slowly and pairing with hydration helps.

Retinol vs bakuchiol — what is the difference?

Retinol is the well-established vitamin A active; bakuchiol is a plant-derived alternative that is often gentler and more stable, though retinol has the larger body of documentation.

Related monographs

The SBCT Labs Ingredient Suite is a free, independent educational resource for cosmetic R&D teams and formulators. It is provided for reference only and is not sales material — SBCT Labs does not necessarily supply the ingredients described here.

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