What it does
- Exfoliates the skin surface for smoother texture and brighter tone.
- Helps soften the look of fine lines and uneven surface.
- Improves the penetration and feel of subsequent products.
How it works
Being the smallest AHA, glycolic acid penetrates readily and is widely documented to weaken the bonds between surface corneocytes, accelerating their shedding. Free-acid activity depends on a low pH (around 3–4). Regular use can increase sun sensitivity, so daily SPF is advised.
Use level
- Typical use level
- cosmetic typically up to ~10%
Consumer cosmetic products commonly use up to about 10% (higher-strength professional peels are a separate, controlled category). Start low to build tolerance.
Formulation considerations
- Water-soluble; needs low pH (around 3–4) for exfoliating activity.
- Partial neutralisation balances efficacy against irritation.
- Increases sun sensitivity; include SPF guidance on the label.
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Hydrators and soothing actives (to offset dryness)
- Niacinamide (on alternate use for sensitive skin)
Use with care / avoid
- Combining with other strong acids or retinoids simultaneously (irritation)
- Skipping daily sunscreen
Regulatory status
Glycolic acid is listed in the EU CosIng database. AHAs carry sun-sensitivity labelling requirements, and higher-strength peels are regulated separately; follow current limits for your market.
Common questions
What percentage of glycolic acid is safe to use?
Consumer products commonly use up to about 10%; beginners should start lower. Professional peels are higher and controlled.
Does glycolic acid make skin sun-sensitive?
Yes; AHAs can increase sun sensitivity, so daily sunscreen is recommended.
Glycolic vs lactic acid — what is the difference?
Glycolic is smaller and penetrates faster (stronger, more stimulating); lactic is larger, gentler and also hydrating. Lactic is often better for sensitive or dry skin.