The most stable ether derivative of Vitamin C, combining the brightening and antioxidant efficacy of L-Ascorbic Acid with superior chemical stability and skin penetration. Water-soluble, pH-independent activity, and no discolouration on oxidation. The preferred Vitamin C derivative for high-performance cosmetic formulations.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Single-ingredient active. CAS: 86404-04-8. Full CoA including HPLC purity, heavy metals, microbial limits, and loss on drying available in TDS.
The ether bond at the C-3 position prevents oxidation — no yellowing, no browning on exposure to light, air, or heat. Stable across a wide pH range (3.5–7.0) unlike L-Ascorbic Acid which degrades rapidly.
Directly inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity, reducing melanin synthesis at the source. Clinically validated brightening effect comparable to Arbutin and Kojic Acid, with a superior safety profile.
Converted to L-Ascorbic Acid intracellularly — activates collagen gene expression and hydroxylation, supporting dermal collagen framework and reducing fine line depth over time.
Potent free radical scavenging activity protects against UV-induced oxidative stress, pollution damage, and photoaging. Works synergistically with Vitamin E and ferulic acid.
The ethyl group increases lipophilicity relative to L-Ascorbic Acid, improving permeation through the stratum corneum lipid matrix while maintaining water solubility for formulation flexibility.
Water-soluble — dissolves directly in the aqueous phase. No need for low pH formulation required by L-AA. Compatible with niacinamide, retinol, AHAs, peptides, and most cosmetic actives.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid penetrates the stratum corneum via passive diffusion. Enhanced lipophilicity vs L-AA improves permeation through the lipid-rich intercellular matrix of the epidermis.
Once inside keratinocytes and melanocytes, cellular esterases cleave the ethyl group — releasing free L-Ascorbic Acid at the site of action. Targeted, controlled Vitamin C delivery.
Free L-AA chelates copper at the active site of tyrosinase, blocking the rate-limiting step of melanin synthesis. Reduces pigment production without cytotoxicity — safe for all skin tones.
L-AA acts as cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase enzymes — essential for collagen cross-linking and matrix stability. Stimulates fibroblast collagen gene expression (COL1A1, COL1A2).
Quenches singlet oxygen and reactive oxygen species generated by UV exposure. Regenerates oxidised Vitamin E (tocopherol) — synergistic antioxidant network when combined with Vit E + Ferulic Acid.
| Parameter | Specification |
|---|---|
| Usage Level | 1.0 – 3.0% (recommended: 2.0%) |
| pH Range | 3.5 – 7.0 (stable across this range — no low pH requirement) |
| Incorporation | Dissolve directly in the aqueous phase at room temperature or up to 40°C. Stir until fully dissolved before adding other ingredients. |
| Compatibility | Compatible with niacinamide, AHAs, BHAs, retinol, peptides, hyaluronic acid. Avoid strong oxidizing agents. Synergistic with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid. |
| Packaging | Airless pump preferred to minimize oxidation at finished formulation level. Opaque or amber glass recommended. |
| Storage (bulk) | Store in sealed HDPE or glass containers, cool dry place at 15–25°C. Protect from light, heat, and moisture. |
Full physicochemical specs, HPLC chromatogram, heavy metals, and microbial limits in Technical Data Sheet. Request below.
Request the full TDS with HPLC data, or order a sample for evaluation.