What it does
- Gently exfoliates for smoother texture and brighter tone.
- Larger molecule means slower, gentler action than glycolic acid.
- Common in multi-acid blends.
How it works
Malic acid is a dicarboxylic AHA (from apples and other fruit) widely documented as a gentler exfoliant than glycolic acid, with some humectant character. It is frequently combined with other AHAs to balance strength and comfort. Free-acid activity needs a low pH.
Use level
- Typical use level
- typically 1–10% (often in AHA blends)
Commonly used at 1–10% at low pH, often within an AHA blend. Increases sun sensitivity.
Formulation considerations
- Water-soluble; low pH drives exfoliation.
- Gentler and slower than glycolic acid.
- Sun-sensitivity labelling applies.
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Other AHAs (blends)
- Hydrators and soothing actives
Use with care / avoid
- Skipping sunscreen
- Stacking many strong acids at once
Regulatory status
Malic acid is listed in the EU CosIng database. As an AHA it carries sun-sensitivity labelling considerations.
Common questions
Is malic acid gentle?
It is a larger, generally gentler AHA than glycolic acid, often used in blends.
What percentage of malic acid is used?
Commonly 1–10% at low pH, often within an AHA blend.
Does malic acid hydrate?
It has some humectant character alongside its exfoliating action.