What it does
- Hydrates by drawing and holding water (it is part of the skin's own NMF).
- At higher levels, softens and smooths rough, thickened or flaky skin.
- Improves the penetration of other actives.
How it works
Urea is a small, water-soluble molecule and a natural part of the skin's moisturising factor. At lower levels it acts as a humectant; at higher levels (around 10% and above) it becomes keratolytic, loosening rough, hardened skin — which is why it appears in foot and body creams. It is most stable around neutral pH.
Use level
- Typical use level
- humectant ~2–10%; keratolytic 10%+
Around 2–10% for hydration; 10% and above for keratolytic softening (feet, elbows, very dry skin). Most stable near pH 6.
Formulation considerations
- Water-soluble; add to the water phase.
- Most stable around pH 6; extremes of pH and heat can degrade it (releasing ammonia).
- Often paired with buffering and a chelator for stability.
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Glycerin and other humectants
- Ceramides and emollients (for very dry skin)
Use with care / avoid
- Very high or low pH and prolonged heat (degradation)
Regulatory status
Urea is listed in the EU CosIng database and is a long-established cosmetic ingredient.
Common questions
What does urea do for skin?
At lower levels it hydrates (it is part of skin's natural moisturising factor); at higher levels it softens rough, thickened or flaky skin.
What percentage of urea should I use?
Around 2–10% for hydration; 10% and above for keratolytic softening.
Is urea good for very dry or rough skin?
Yes; higher-level urea creams are a classic choice for rough, dry areas such as feet and elbows.