What it does
- Helps brighten and even skin tone.
- Soothes and helps reduce the look of redness.
- Provides antioxidant support.
How it works
Glabridin is widely documented to inhibit tyrosinase, supporting a more even tone, while licochalcone A and glycyrrhizin-related compounds contribute soothing, anti-redness and antioxidant activity. The overall effect depends heavily on the extract grade and its standardised glabridin content.
Use level
- Typical use level
- extract typically 0.5–2%; glabridin often 0.1–0.5%
Whole extracts are commonly used at 0.5–2%; purified glabridin fractions are used at much lower levels (often 0.1–0.5%) because they are concentrated.
Formulation considerations
- Choose a grade suited to your phase (water/glycol soluble vs oil soluble).
- Standardised glabridin content matters more than total extract percentage.
- Generally robust; follow the supplier's guidance for the specific grade.
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Niacinamide
- Vitamin C derivatives
- Centella and allantoin (soothing synergy)
Use with care / avoid
- Assuming all licorice extracts are equivalent — potency varies widely
Regulatory status
Licorice root extract and its actives are listed in the EU CosIng database and are long-established cosmetic ingredients.
Common questions
What does licorice extract do for skin?
It helps brighten and even tone (mainly via glabridin) and soothes visible redness.
What is glabridin?
Glabridin is the key brightening compound in licorice root, widely documented to inhibit tyrosinase.
How much licorice extract should I use?
Whole extracts are typically 0.5–2%; purified glabridin fractions are used at much lower levels. Standardised active content is the figure to check.