Soothing / Sensitive

Centella Asiatica & Madecassoside

INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica, often called cica, is a botanical soothing active whose key compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside and related triterpenes) help calm, support barrier repair and reduce the look of redness.

INCICentella Asiatica Extract
Also known asCica; madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic/asiatic acid
Use levelextract typically 0.1–5%; purified actives lower
Solubilitygrade-dependent (water/glycol common)
pH / stabilitybroad
RegulatoryListed in EU CosIng

What it does

  • Soothes and helps calm reactive, stressed skin.
  • Supports barrier repair and recovery.
  • Helps reduce the appearance of redness; provides antioxidant support.

How it works

Centella's benefits come mainly from its triterpenoids: madecassoside and asiaticoside (glycosides) and madecassic and asiatic acids. These are widely documented to support the skin's repair processes and collagen-related health and to calm visible irritation, which is why cica products are popular for sensitive and post-procedure skin.

Use level

Typical use level
extract typically 0.1–5%; purified actives lower

Whole extracts are commonly used around 0.1–5% depending on standardisation; purified madecassoside is used at lower levels. Standardised triterpene content matters more than raw extract percentage.

Formulation considerations

  • Choose a grade matched to your phase; check standardised triterpene content.
  • Generally robust and broadly compatible.
  • Purified actives (e.g. madecassoside) are used at low levels.

What it pairs with & what to avoid

Pairs well with

  • Panthenol, allantoin, colloidal oatmeal (soothing stack)
  • Niacinamide, ceramides (barrier)
  • Post-retinol or post-procedure care

Use with care / avoid

  • Assuming all cica extracts are equivalent — potency varies with standardisation

Regulatory status

Centella asiatica extract and its actives are listed in the EU CosIng database and are well-established soothing ingredients.

Common questions

What is cica in skincare?

Cica is shorthand for centella asiatica, a botanical used to soothe, calm redness and support barrier repair.

What is madecassoside?

Madecassoside is one of centella's key triterpene glycosides, widely documented for soothing and repair-supporting benefits.

Is centella good for sensitive skin?

Yes; it is a mainstay soothing active for reactive, stressed and post-procedure skin.

Related monographs

The SBCT Labs Ingredient Suite is a free, independent educational resource for cosmetic R&D teams and formulators. It is provided for reference only and is not sales material — SBCT Labs does not necessarily supply the ingredients described here.

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