What it does
- Helps even skin tone and fade the look of post-blemish marks.
- Supports clearer, blemish-prone skin.
- Helps reduce the appearance of redness.
How it works
Azelaic acid is widely documented to have several complementary actions: it moderates melanin production in overactive melanocytes (helping uneven tone), has antibacterial and keratolytic effects useful for blemish-prone skin, and calms visible redness. Its main formulation challenge is low solubility, so it is often used as a suspension or as a more soluble derivative such as potassium azeloyl diglycinate.
Use level
- Typical use level
- cosmetic up to ~10%
Cosmetic products commonly use up to about 10%. Prescription formulations at 15–20% are medicines and outside cosmetic scope. Derivatives are used at lower equivalent levels.
Formulation considerations
- Poorly soluble in water and oil; often suspended or used as a derivative.
- Works in mildly acidic products.
- Texture and grittiness are common challenges with the free acid.
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Niacinamide
- Salicylic acid (blemish-prone skin)
- Gentle hydrators to offset dryness
Use with care / avoid
- Layering many strong acids at once (irritation risk)
Regulatory status
Azelaic acid is listed in the EU CosIng database for cosmetic use. Higher-strength products (15–20%) are regulated as medicines in many markets.
Common questions
What percentage of azelaic acid is in skincare?
Cosmetic products commonly use up to about 10%. The 15–20% strengths are prescription medicines.
Is azelaic acid good for redness and blemishes?
It is widely documented to help with the look of redness and to support blemish-prone skin, alongside evening tone.
Can I use azelaic acid with niacinamide?
Yes, they are commonly paired and generally well tolerated together.