What it does
- Helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone.
- A plant-derived, gentler alternative to hydroquinone (which is not permitted in EU cosmetics).
How it works
Arbutin is widely documented to inhibit tyrosinase, releasing its active moiety slowly for brightening with good tolerance. The beta isomer is the naturally occurring form (also found in bearberry); the alpha isomer is more stable. Very low pH and heat can hydrolyse it toward hydroquinone, so avoid high-heat holds.
Use level
- Typical use level
- typically 1–2%
Commonly used at 1–2%. Often combined with niacinamide or vitamin C for a multi-pathway approach.
Formulation considerations
- Water-soluble; add to the cool-down phase.
- Avoid very low pH and prolonged heat (hydrolysis).
- Compatible with most brightening actives.
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Niacinamide
- Vitamin C derivatives
Use with care / avoid
- Very low pH held at high temperature
Regulatory status
Arbutin is listed in the EU CosIng database and is widely used; hydroquinone itself is not permitted in EU cosmetics.
Common questions
Arbutin vs alpha arbutin — what is the difference?
Both influence tyrosinase; alpha arbutin is more stable, while beta-arbutin is the naturally occurring form. Both are used for uneven tone.
What percentage of arbutin is used?
Commonly 1–2%.
Is arbutin safe?
It is widely used and generally well tolerated at typical cosmetic levels.