What it does
- Supports a more even skin tone and helps reduce the look of dullness.
- Reinforces the skin barrier by supporting ceramide and lipid synthesis.
- Helps regulate sebum and refine the appearance of pores.
- Provides antioxidant support against environmental stress.
How it works
Niacinamide is a precursor to the coenzymes NAD+ and NADP+, which are central to cellular energy metabolism and repair. In the context of pigmentation it is widely documented to interrupt the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, which is a different route to a brighter appearance than tyrosinase inhibition. It also supports keratinocyte production of barrier lipids, which is the basis of its barrier and moisture-retention benefits.
Use level
- Typical use level
- typically 2–5% (up to 10%)
A very well-tolerated active across a broad range. Benefits are widely documented from around 2%, with 4–5% common in serums. Levels up to 10% are used but offer diminishing returns and a higher chance of transient flushing or tingling in sensitive users.
Formulation considerations
- Water-soluble; add to the water phase.
- Most stable around pH 5–7. Strongly acidic conditions over time can hydrolyse a fraction to nicotinic acid (niacin), which may cause flushing.
- Heat-stable for normal processing; compatible with most actives.
- Very high concentrations may cause temporary tingling in reactive skin.
What it pairs with & what to avoid
Pairs well with
- Hyaluronic acid and glycerin (hydration)
- Ceramides and panthenol (barrier)
- Zinc and salicylic acid (oil-prone skin)
- Most vitamin C forms (the old 'cannot mix' claim is largely outdated at normal pH)
Use with care / avoid
- Very low-pH systems held over time (risk of conversion to niacin)
Regulatory status
Niacinamide is listed in the EU CosIng database and has a long, well-established history of safe cosmetic use worldwide. No unusual concentration restrictions apply at typical cosmetic levels.
Common questions
What percentage of niacinamide should I use?
Most documented benefits appear from about 2%, with 4–5% common in serums. Levels up to 10% are used but are not necessarily more effective and can cause transient tingling in sensitive skin.
Can you use niacinamide with vitamin C?
Yes. The idea that they cannot be combined is largely outdated; it stemmed from old, impure high-heat conditions. At normal formulation pH they are commonly used together.
Is niacinamide good for sensitive skin?
It is generally well tolerated. Some reactive users notice temporary flushing at high concentrations, so lower levels are a sensible starting point.
Does niacinamide help with pores and oil?
It is widely documented to help regulate sebum and refine the appearance of enlarged pores with continued use.